Tamarack Jacket with zipper and ruler work quilting.
When I first saw this pattern I wasn’t sure if I would like the fit. It isn’t close fitting, yet because I paid attention to how it fit through my shoulders, I keep getting compliments on how well it does fit. I had also been using quilting rulers with my quilts and thought that it would be a great jacket to use these on.
In November I started. Below are some tips on how I created mine.
- I used the size for my high bust. I did a forward shoulder adjustment, a full bust adjustment to match my bust adjustment (My shoulders fit better with the high bust measurement) and later took out some of the middle section because the fit was off. (I should have cut it to the exact amount first) I used muslin to figure this out and then changed my red dot paper pattern. (I always fit my pattern in order to remake these items again)
- I planned out what I wanted to do with my jacket. I scanned the pattern image and then printed it out. I drew different ideas out and then came up with the one that I thought would be stylish but not too much.
- The fabrics that I chose were a grey flannel, Quilter’s Dream Orient batting (Silk, bamboo, tencel and cotton mix) and Carolyn Friedlander Lawn. I got this from Honey Run Quilters were I work part time and teach garment fitting and construction classes.
- I safety pinned the lawn, batting and flannel in a sandwich. I placed the pattern pieces on this and then cut out an inch or two around each pattern. I set each aside.
- Practice is really important with this! I tried out different threads and different circles before deciding on my final with a practice sandwich.
- I drew out on the pattern some marking lines to match my quilting. I placed a horizontal and vertical line on each to match up.
- I first did diagonal lines using my walking foot with a gray thread.
- I then used my rounded quilting ruler and variegated thread for the floral designs. The sleeves were quilted with just a straight line across and a detail near the hand.
- Once I was done quilting, I placed the pattern back over and cut around each.
- I changed the pocket direction to be angled along my quilting.
- I sewed together the pieces following the instructions. After sewing the seam together, I cut out as much of the bulk of the seam as I could. I left the lining whole and then serged this together.
- I wanted a zipper. I sewed the binding to the edge of the front and then used fabric glue to baste it to the back. I used a stitch in the ditch foot and moved my needle over in order to add the topstitching. I did the front part (where the zipper goes) before I topstitched the rest. I then added the zipper. I hand basted the zipper in location before I did the machine stitching.
- I then finished the topstitching binding on the remaining areas.