Shearwater Kaftan

I have been working on a lot of sewing projects these days. Since I am teaching garment construction classes I have been busy in the studio altering and creating these. One pattern that I have created a few times is Make It Perfect’s Shearwater Kaftan.

 This pattern is a loose fitting top, but I wanted to fit it a little closer. I made a few alterations and I will mention these below. Many of my students created this top just fine according to their bust measurement. I just can’t help but constantly alter a pattern to better fit my specific body shape.

Alterations:

-Forward shoulder adjustment 
about 1/2".

-Took in some at the sides

-Slight swayback adjustment

-Lengthened sleeve slightly

-Slimmed sleeve width

-Length is between the short 
and the long

My first version I created using Art Gallery Fabrics Sprinkled Peonies Fresh by Maureen Cracknell. This is a great lightweight Voile. I work at Honey Run Quilters and got this fabric from the shop. Since the summers in California are going to be hot, the lightweight cotton Voile is a great fabric! Here are some photos that share my stitches and the accents to the top.

For the sleeve I used a french seam. The sleeve has a little tab and it is visible from the inside. This was great, but it was really difficult to finish the bottom. I tried a few different options, but I am not entirely happy with how these turned out. I created a facing similar to the neckline piece.

I kept the neckline simple. I created bias tape from the original fabric. I used the shorter of the neckline openings.

I serged the top seam. I pressed open and serged each side. On the sleeve I kept the seams toghether. I only serged once. I figured that this would give less bulk. Below are photos from my second version. I used a Double Cotton Gauze for this one.

This is a textile that is Andover Fabric’s Tapestry in Green- Hit Parade by Lizzy House. I believe that this fabric is no longer available. I also added a tie to the front and used the original long length.

One of my tips with working with double gauze is be careful cutting too close to the stitch. When I was working on the tabs for the sleeves I cut too close to it once. The stitch fell away. I remade it and made sure to leave at least a 1/4″ seam allowance before turning it. I will probably create this again and create a short sleeve. The double gauze is also cotton and will be great for summer tops!